Vigs Big Minnow a.k.a. Vigs Floating Minnow
Here are the instructions to tie my floating minnow. There are many different variations out there and this is mine so it might now be exactly like others you've seen.
Materials:
Hook: Mustad 9672 #2 (makes a 1 1/4" long minnow) or 94720 #2 (makes a 2 1/4" long minnow)
Thread: UNI Mono 4M fine/clear
Body: 2A white volara closed cell foam 1/4" thick, clear pearl mylar tubing in size XL, soft body liquid plastic resin
Eyes: Stick on silver holographic 3/16" molded (you can use any type you like or paint them on)
additionally, I also use silver and gold holographic mylar along with glow in the dark for the scale pattern too. Mylar is available in many colors today and you can use pretty much any color you choose to just as with the eyes. I prefer the 3/16" molded silver holographic but there are dozens of options available including painting them on. I like these because they are very realistic and help the minnow float in an upright position. I use Sharpie brand markers for the coloring as they are inexpensive and easy to find. Also, the Mustad hooks I use are my personal preference based upon tying these on different hooks. I like these 2 the best out of any Ive tried.
Im going to give you step by step instructions but first I want to say this: I pre cut the shape and slice the bottom, then color all of my bodies as the initial step as it makes the process go faster and also give the colors time to dry. If you try to color the body on the hook as you will see ahead, you wont be able to finish the minnow for about 5 minutes as you wait for the color to dry, otherwise youll smear the colors.
Step 1:
Cut a piece of the mylar about 1 3/4" to 2" long. Start your mono on the front right behind the eye and make about 10 wraps down the shank. Now tie in the mylar off the front of the hook right behind the eye and carefully lash down the rest of the mylar towards the bend. Bring the mono all the way down the back to the bend of the hook and let hang.
Step 2:
Take your closed cell foam that is 1/4" thick and cut it about 3/8" tall by about 1 1/4" long. Cut a slight angle from one end at 1/4" to the other ends top corner along the back/top of the foam and then cut the front at about 45 degrees on the top and bottom to give the rough shape of a minnows body.
Step 3:
Here you see how I slice the bottom like a hotdog bun to make the foam fit down over the shank just right. You want the slice to end in the middle of the body. You can also use a small bead of zap-a-gap on the shank to keep the foam in place a little better.
Step 4:
While carefully pinching the head area of the minnow in your non bobbin hand, take your bobbin hand and push the mylar up over the head. You can see that doing it while wet will smear the color and it can ruin the minnow, getting color on the mylar or white of the body. This one is colored with a black back which will look a green/black color when finished.
If you've cut the minnow to the dimensions I stated, sliding the mylar up and over should work perfect. A bigger body can be tight or even impossible for the mylar to slide over. Keep pushing the mylar down over the whole body until you get to the back. You may need to fray the mylar slightly as it will be longer than the bend which will inhibit it being pulled taught at the rear.
Step 5:
You should have a little extra mylar to work with and what I do is keep working the mylar from head to tail until its snug, then wrap a few times to keep it in place. I then fray the mylar completely and clip off just the right amount to leave a nice tail. Once thats done, I wrap 20 or so times, whip finish and remove from the vise.
Step 6:
Now I pinch on my eyes and its ready for the soft body. I like to use the thicker stuff but the thin will work. You may want a couple coats though. I use whats called a bright artist paint brush to apply the soft body in a 3/8" size. Warm water and soap to clean the brush. Youll need a turner or youll have to babysit them for a bit while they dry. I use a turner and an infrared reptile heat light to cure them overnight. 24 hours is a good amount of time to let them dry, but about 5 minutes is all you need before they wont run anymore. You can see the difference the soft body makes in the finish look too. It helps make the color look translucent through the pearl mylar giving the minnow a realistic scale effect. The top is before the soft body, the bottom, after. And yes, I go right over the eyes, it keeps them on there longer.
Click the link below to go to the floating minnow page and check out the other colors we tie and get some information about these awesome little minnows!
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